STARDATE 2026.280
SECTOR 04
LOG — 7 OCT 2026
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Naples — October 2026

Mission log · 7–11 October 2026
VIEWSCREEN // LOG OCTOBER 2026
NAPLES — SUNRISE OVER VESUVIUS

Just over half a year after the last time, we were back in Naples: five days, from Wednesday 7 to Sunday 11 October 2026, once again in the familiar apartment with Bruno on Corso Vittorio Emanuele. Below is our log, day by day, with photos, videos and the actual route.

Timelapse from Bruno's terrace

The same view, every day

Every day, at roughly the same time, we take a photo of the view from Bruno's terrace: the rooftops and domes of Naples with Vesuvius behind them. Put one after the other, you can see the weather and the light change. Day 1 is a little later in the day because of our arrival, and on day 3 Marc was awake so early that there is also a photo taken in the dark. And on the last morning the sun was finally shining in full.

The view, day by day
VIDEO
07.10–11.10
Seven moments, always from the same spot: the cloudy day we arrived, by day and in the evening, the sun next to Vesuvius on day 2, the city lit up at half past six in the morning, the grey, cloudy morning of day 3, at last full sunshine on the final day, and dusk that same evening.
Day 1 Day 2 Day 3 Day 4 Day 5
Day 1 — Wednesday 7 October 2026

Arrival, taking it easy

The alarm went off at three and by quarter to five the car was parked at Schiphol. After a quick "breakfast" at Burger King we left gate D74 at 07:46, and at 09:43 we were on the ground in Naples. A shared taxi to Garibaldi, Metro Line 1 to Toledo, up on the Funicolare Centrale and then another kilometre on foot to Bruno's: exhausting! After a shower and a short rest, finally breakfast, er, lunch at Caffè Eclettico, then wandering through the old centre with a long terrace stop on Piazza San Gaetano. Dinner at Tumasi on Piazza Dante, and back to Bruno's in our first Uber ride ever. Step count at the end of the day: 14,208.

SECTOR SCAN ARRIVAL IN NAPLESDAY 1 · 09:43–18:25
VIA TOLEDOCORSO VITTORIO EMANUELESPACCANAPOLIVIA DEI TRIBUNALIVIA PESSINACORSO UMBERTO IVIA MARINAVIA DUOMODUOMOCASTEL SANT’ELMOMANNPIAZZA DEL PLEBISCITOCASTEL NUOVOBAY OF NAPLESVOMERON ↑SHARED TAXIMETRO LINE 1FUNICOLARE CENTRALEUBER1 — CAPODICHINO1 KM2345678910111213
14,208 STEPS · ≈ 10.9 KM ON FOOTBUS / TUBE ≈ 4.3 KM

Route from the GPS in our photos, including the unused ones; steps from the step counter. Yellow dashes: on foot. Blue dots: bus, train or metro. Diamonds: landmarks.

09:43–11:46 · Arrival, to Bruno’s
  1. Landed at Capodichino
  2. By shared taxi to Garibaldi station
  3. Toledo metro station, out onto Via Toledo
  4. Funicolare Centrale: first glimpse of Vesuvius
11:46–13:43 · At Bruno’s and Caffè Eclettico
  1. At Bruno’s, and lunch at Caffè Eclettico across the street
13:43–16:13 · The old centre
  1. Gallerie d’Italia, by Augusteo
  2. Monteoliveto fountain
  3. Gesù Nuovo
  4. Sant’Angelo a Nilo on Spaccanapoli
  5. The Girolamini on Via dei Tribunali
  6. Drinks on Piazza San Gaetano
  7. Purgatorio ad Arco: a capuzzella for luck
16:19–18:25 · Tumasi and back
  1. Tumasi on Piazza Dante: tris di montanare, gnocchi and carbonara
Schiphol Plaza
Still pitch dark at Schiphol Plaza: the mission to Naples begins.
05:09
Still pitch dark at Schiphol Plaza: the mission to Naples begins.
Breakfast at Burger King
A hearty "breakfast" at Burger King, because it is going to be a long day.
05:38
A hearty "breakfast" at Burger King, because it is going to be a long day.
Gate D74
Waiting at gate D74, with the Naples weather already on the screen.
06:24
Waiting at gate D74, with the Naples weather already on the screen.
On board
Marc and Liek on board, ready for departure.
07:08
Marc and Liek on board, ready for departure.
Heading for the runway
Taxiing under a pink morning sky.
07:39
Taxiing under a pink morning sky.
Over the Alps
Over the Alps, with the first snow on the peaks.
08:40
Over the Alps, with the first snow on the peaks.
Landed!
VIDEO
09:43
Rolling down the runway at Capodichino: we are in Naples.
Garibaldi station
Liek with the suitcase at Garibaldi station, after the shared taxi from the airport.
10:21
Liek with the suitcase at Garibaldi station, after the shared taxi from the airport.
Toledo metro
Toledo station on Line 1, with its famous blue mosaic.
10:50
Toledo station on Line 1, with its famous blue mosaic.
Via Toledo
Back above ground on Via Toledo, by the Banca Nazionale del Lavoro building.
10:56
Back above ground on Via Toledo, by the Banca Nazionale del Lavoro building.
First glimpse of Vesuvius
Up on the Funicolare Centrale and there it is: Vesuvius. Now just another kilometre on foot to Bruno’s.
11:25
Up on the Funicolare Centrale and there it is: Vesuvius. Now just another kilometre on foot to Bruno’s.
Back at Bruno’s
The familiar view from the terrace at Bruno’s.
11:46
The familiar view from the terrace at Bruno’s.
Bruno’s umbrella
While we were resting on the bed, Bruno hung an umbrella on our door: rain was possible. So thoughtful!
12:46
While we were resting on the bed, Bruno hung an umbrella on our door: rain was possible. So thoughtful!
Caffè Eclettico
Liek at Caffè Eclettico across the street: breakfast turned into lunch.
13:01
Liek at Caffè Eclettico across the street: breakfast turned into lunch.
Monteoliveto fountain
Liek at the Monteoliveto fountain.
14:03
Liek at the Monteoliveto fountain.
Gesù Nuovo
The diamond-studded facade of the Gesù Nuovo.
14:11
The diamond-studded facade of the Gesù Nuovo.
Sant’Angelo a Nilo
The church of Sant’Angelo a Nilo on Spaccanapoli.
14:17
The church of Sant’Angelo a Nilo on Spaccanapoli.
Via dei Tribunali
An old archway on Via dei Tribunali, with Maradona on the wall.
14:33
An old archway on Via dei Tribunali, with Maradona on the wall.
The Girolamini
The Girolamini church on Via dei Tribunali.
14:34
The Girolamini church on Via dei Tribunali.
Terrace on Piazza San Gaetano
VIDEO
14:59
Taking a break at a terrace on Piazza San Gaetano.
Live music
VIDEO
15:38
On the terrace a man belts out a very famous Italian song, plate in hand.
A capuzzella for luck
At the Purgatorio ad Arco, Liek touches one of the bronze skulls for luck.
16:08
At the Purgatorio ad Arco, Liek touches one of the bronze skulls for luck.
Piazza Dante
Arriving at Piazza Dante, where we had dinner at Tumasi.
16:19
Arriving at Piazza Dante, where we had dinner at Tumasi.
At Tumasi
Marc and Liek on the terrace at Tumasi, Liek with a fruit mocktail.
16:26
Marc and Liek on the terrace at Tumasi, Liek with a fruit mocktail.
Tris di montanare
Three fried pizzette: alla genovese, with Neapolitan ragù, and sorrentina with ricotta, anchovies and lemon zest.
16:43
Three fried pizzette: alla genovese, with Neapolitan ragù, and sorrentina with ricotta, anchovies and lemon zest.
Gnocchi alla sorrentina
Gnocchi alla sorrentina for Marc; Liek had Tumasi’s carbonara.
17:30
Gnocchi alla sorrentina for Marc; Liek had Tumasi’s carbonara.
Evening at Bruno’s
Back to Bruno’s in our first Uber ride ever, and the view from the terrace with Vesuvius in the clouds.
18:25
Back to Bruno’s in our first Uber ride ever, and the view from the terrace with Vesuvius in the clouds.
Day 2 — Thursday 8 October 2026

Pompeii

A day that turned out very differently from the plan. After breakfast at Caffè Eclettico, down on the Funicolare Centrale, on foot past the Galleria Umberto I, Castel Nuovo and Piazza Municipio, and by metro to Garibaldi. Far too early, and then sent to the wrong platform by a friendly Neapolitan, so only at 11:08 the Circumvesuviana to Pompeii. There, heavy thunderstorms broke out, and our ponchos were back at the apartment: it was supposed to stay sunny, after all. We got no further than just past the entrance, sheltered in a tunnel and saw on the rain radar that it would keep pouring for hours. So at 12:29 we were already on the train back. Liek went hunting for dry shirts, and we spent a few hours at Tumasi on Piazza Dante. Back to Bruno's by Uber, and of course by then it was dry again. Step count at the end of the day: 9,221.

SECTOR SCAN TO POMPEII AND BACKDAY 2 · 08:19–16:28
VIA TOLEDOCORSO VITTORIO EMANUELESPACCANAPOLIVIA DEI TRIBUNALIVIA PESSINACORSO UMBERTO IVIA MARINAVIA DUOMODUOMOCASTEL SANT’ELMOMANNPIAZZA DEL PLEBISCITOBAY OF NAPLESVOMERON ↑FUNICOLARE CENTRALEMETRO LINE 1CIRCUMVESUVIANA, THERE AND BACKUBER7 — POMPEI1 KM12345689
9,221 STEPS · ≈ 7.1 KM ON FOOTBUS / TUBE ≈ 6.8 KM

Route from the GPS in our photos, including the unused ones; steps from the step counter. Yellow dashes: on foot. Blue dots: bus, train or metro. Diamonds: landmarks.

08:19–09:12 · Breakfast and off we go
  1. At Bruno’s, breakfast at Caffè Eclettico
  2. Down on the Funicolare Centrale
09:32–10:29 · Through town to Garibaldi
  1. Galleria Umberto I
  2. Castel Nuovo
  3. Piazza Municipio and the metro
  4. Garibaldi: first to the wrong platform
11:08–12:29 · Pompeii, in the rain
  1. Pompeii: just past Porta Marina, sheltering from the storm
13:28–16:28 · Tumasi and back
  1. Dante metro and Tumasi: caprese, montanare, pizza diavola and ribs
  2. A tree-lined little street
SECTOR SCAN POMPEIIDAY 2 · PLANNED
VIA DELL'ABBONDANZAVIA DI NOLAVIA STABIANATO PORTA ERCOLANOIN / OUT13 · ORTO DEI FUGGIASCHI14 · AMPHITHEATREN ↑1234567891011121314151617

The plan for Pompeii. Heavy thunderstorms meant we got no further than just past Porta Marina. Schematic, not to scale. One loop of about 5 km, in and out through Porta Marina; train back at 16:42 (or 17:01). Running late? After stop 14 you can leave by the exit at the amphitheatre (skipping stops 15–17). Which houses are open varies from day to day.

13:00–13:45 · Entrance and the Forum
  1. Porta Marina
  2. Basilica
  3. Temple of Apollo
  4. Forum
  5. Granai del Foro
13:45–14:40 · North: the finest houses
  1. Terme del Foro
  2. Casa del Poeta Tragico
  3. Casa del Fauno
  4. Casa dei Vettii
14:40–15:10 · East along the main street
  1. Lupanare
  2. Terme Stabiane
  3. Via dell'Abbondanza
15:10–15:45 · The plaster casts and the amphitheatre
  1. Orto dei Fuggiaschi (13 plaster casts)
  2. Amphitheatre and Palestra Grande
15:45–16:30 · Back via the Menandro and the theatres
  1. Casa del Menandro
  2. Teatro Grande and Odeion
  3. Foro Triangolare
Morning at Bruno’s
The sun over Vesuvius, seen from the terrace at Bruno’s.
08:19
The sun over Vesuvius, seen from the terrace at Bruno’s.
Breakfast at Caffè Eclettico
Cornetti and coffee at Caffè Eclettico.
08:28
Cornetti and coffee at Caffè Eclettico.
The Eclettico crew
A selfie with the guys at Eclettico who made our breakfast and coffee.
08:44
A selfie with the guys at Eclettico who made our breakfast and coffee.
Vesuvius above the city
On the way to the Funicolare, with Vesuvius in the morning light.
09:08
On the way to the Funicolare, with Vesuvius in the morning light.
Corso Vittorio Emanuele
Along the winding Corso Vittorio Emanuele.
09:11
Along the winding Corso Vittorio Emanuele.
Galleria Umberto I
Down on the Funicolare: the Galleria Umberto I.
09:33
Down on the Funicolare: the Galleria Umberto I.
Castel Nuovo
Castel Nuovo, the Maschio Angioino.
09:35
Castel Nuovo, the Maschio Angioino.
Piazza Municipio
Piazza Municipio with the Neptune fountain.
09:37
Piazza Municipio with the Neptune fountain.
Municipio metro
Municipio metro station: Line 1 towards Garibaldi.
09:41
Municipio metro station: Line 1 towards Garibaldi.
Waiting for the Circumvesuviana
Far too early at Garibaldi, and sent to the wrong platform by a friendly Neapolitan. Another half hour to wait.
10:29
Far too early at Garibaldi, and sent to the wrong platform by a friendly Neapolitan. Another half hour to wait.
On the way to Pompeii
VIDEO
11:12
On the Circumvesuviana to Pompeii, with Vesuvius in the distance. Still fine weather.
Arrived in Pompeii
Liek with a Coke in Pompeii, still dry.
11:45
Liek with a Coke in Pompeii, still dry.
Porta Marina
The Porta Marina entrance. The first ponchos are already appearing.
11:47
The Porta Marina entrance. The first ponchos are already appearing.
And then it poured
VIDEO
11:55
Heavy thunderstorms, and our ponchos were back at the apartment.
The first ruins
Just past the entrance, in the rain. Then sheltering in the tunnel, until the rain radar showed it would pour for hours.
12:01
Just past the entrance, in the rain. Then sheltering in the tunnel, until the rain radar showed it would pour for hours.
Dante metro station
Back in town: an artwork of shoes on railway tracks in Dante metro station.
13:28
Back in town: an artwork of shoes on railway tracks in Dante metro station.
At Tumasi
Back at Tumasi, with Piazza Dante still wet from the storm.
13:59
Back at Tumasi, with Piazza Dante still wet from the storm.
Caprese and montanare
To start, a caprese and the same tris di montanare as yesterday.
14:17
To start, a caprese and the same tris di montanare as yesterday.
Braised ribs
Braised ribs for Liek.
15:16
Braised ribs for Liek.
Pizza diavola
Pizza diavola for Marc.
15:16
Pizza diavola for Marc.
A tree-lined street
A little street with a lovely row of trees, a contrast with the streets around it. Then back to Bruno’s by Uber, and of course by then it was dry again.
15:52
A little street with a lovely row of trees, a contrast with the streets around it. Then back to Bruno’s by Uber, and of course by then it was dry again.
Day 3 — Friday 9 October 2026

Cristo Velato and rain

By four in the morning we were already awake from the huge thunderstorms: the weather gods were working against us again. Luckily it was a museum day, so lots of time indoors, but the ponchos and umbrellas definitely came along. After an early breakfast at Caffè Eclettico we walked in the rain along Via Toledo to the Cappella Sansevero. After a short queue we stood face to face with the Cristo Velato, and that made the biggest impression. Then on to the Museo Archeologico Nazionale (MANN), but there was a huge queue there and the rain came pouring down again. So we didn't go in: we ducked into Tumasi instead, where Liek warmed up with a hot tea. After a good lunch, back to Bruno's by Uber to let it settle, and first a hot shower. In the evening we went back to Tumasi once more for a good meal: a delicious Parma ham with mozzarella, and a lasagne that was not even on the menu. Back again by Uber. Step count at the end of the day: 11,824.

SECTOR SCAN SANSEVERO AND THE RAINDAY 3 · 06:35–18:43
VIA TOLEDOCORSO VITTORIO EMANUELESPACCANAPOLIVIA DEI TRIBUNALIVIA PESSINACORSO UMBERTO IVIA DUOMODUOMOCASTEL SANT’ELMOPIAZZA DEL PLEBISCITOVOMERON ↑FUNICOLARE CENTRALEUBER (EVENING TOO)500 M1234567
11,824 STEPS · ≈ 9.1 KM ON FOOTBUS / TUBE ≈ 1.2 KM

Route from the GPS in our photos, including the unused ones; steps from the step counter. Yellow dashes: on foot. Blue dots: bus, train or metro. Diamonds: landmarks.

06:35–10:30 · Breakfast and Sansevero
  1. At Bruno’s, breakfast at Caffè Eclettico
  2. Via Toledo, in ponchos
  3. Monument to Salvo D’Acquisto
  4. A’Curreia, the belt shop from March
  5. Cappella Sansevero: the Cristo Velato
10:52–18:43 · MANN, and Tumasi twice
  1. MANN: huge queue and pouring rain, not in
  2. Tumasi: lunch, and once more in the evening
Ready for the rain
Liek in her poncho on Via Toledo. Ponchos and umbrellas are definitely coming along today!
09:53
Liek in her poncho on Via Toledo. Ponchos and umbrellas are definitely coming along today!
Salvo D'Acquisto
The monument to Salvo D'Acquisto, the carabiniere who gave his life in 1943 to save twenty-two hostages, with fresh wreaths.
10:01
The monument to Salvo D'Acquisto, the carabiniere who gave his life in 1943 to save twenty-two hostages, with fresh wreaths.
Poncho parade
Ponchos and umbrellas in every colour at the crossing.
10:06
Ponchos and umbrellas in every colour at the crossing.
A'Curreia
This is where we bought lovely belts in March, and we found the shop again. We will be back later for more belts.
10:07
This is where we bought lovely belts in March, and we found the shop again. We will be back later for more belts.
Queueing at Sansevero
Queueing in the rain for the Cappella Sansevero. Luckily not for long.
10:18
Queueing in the rain for the Cappella Sansevero. Luckily not for long.
Along the wall to the entrance
Under the umbrella along the wall to the entrance. Inside you are not allowed to take photos yourself.
10:24
Under the umbrella along the wall to the entrance. Inside you are not allowed to take photos yourself.
The Cristo Velato
The Veiled Christ by Giuseppe Sanmartino, from 1753. The veil looks like fabric, but everything is carved from a single block of marble. This made the biggest impression. Photo: © Museo Cappella Sansevero
10:30
The Veiled Christ by Giuseppe Sanmartino, from 1753. The veil looks like fabric, but everything is carved from a single block of marble. This made the biggest impression. Photo: © Museo Cappella Sansevero
Beneath the veil
The whole body under a wafer-thin veil of marble. Photo: © Museo Cappella Sansevero
10:30
The whole body under a wafer-thin veil of marble. Photo: © Museo Cappella Sansevero
The folds of the veil
Even up close it is hard to believe this is stone. Photo: © Museo Cappella Sansevero
10:30
Even up close it is hard to believe this is stone. Photo: © Museo Cappella Sansevero
The Pudicizia
The Pudicizia (Modesty) by Antonio Corradini, from 1752, another veiled figure. Photo: © Museo Cappella Sansevero
10:30
The Pudicizia (Modesty) by Antonio Corradini, from 1752, another veiled figure. Photo: © Museo Cappella Sansevero
The Disinganno
The Disinganno by Francesco Queirolo: a man struggles free from a net carved entirely from marble. Photo: © Museo Cappella Sansevero
10:30
The Disinganno by Francesco Queirolo: a man struggles free from a net carved entirely from marble. Photo: © Museo Cappella Sansevero
The ceiling
The painted vault of the chapel: the Gloria del Paradiso by Francesco Maria Russo, from 1749. Photo: © Museo Cappella Sansevero
10:30
The painted vault of the chapel: the Gloria del Paradiso by Francesco Maria Russo, from 1749. Photo: © Museo Cappella Sansevero
The anatomical machines
In the crypt: two skeletons with an almost complete replica of the blood vessels, made around 1763 by Giuseppe Salerno for Prince Raimondo di Sangro. Photo: © Museo Cappella Sansevero
10:30
In the crypt: two skeletons with an almost complete replica of the blood vessels, made around 1763 by Giuseppe Salerno for Prince Raimondo di Sangro. Photo: © Museo Cappella Sansevero
Up close
Every little vein was recreated by hand. A bit creepy, but very impressive. Photo: © Museo Cappella Sansevero
10:30
Every little vein was recreated by hand. A bit creepy, but very impressive. Photo: © Museo Cappella Sansevero
On the way to the MANN
VIDEO
11:04
The rain came pouring down again. There was a huge queue at the museum, so we did not go in.
Sheltering at Tumasi
So off to Tumasi on Piazza Dante instead, dry behind the glass.
11:16
So off to Tumasi on Piazza Dante instead, dry behind the glass.
Hot tea
Liek warms up with a hot tea.
11:48
Liek warms up with a hot tea.
Ragù with ricotta
Pasta with ragù and four dollops of ricotta for Marc. Liek went for the Tumasi carbonara again.
12:57
Pasta with ragù and four dollops of ricotta for Marc. Liek went for the Tumasi carbonara again.
Parma ham with mozzarella
Back to Tumasi in the evening: a delicious Parma ham with mozzarella.
17:41
Back to Tumasi in the evening: a delicious Parma ham with mozzarella.
Lasagne, not on the menu
A lasagne that was not even on the menu.
18:43
A lasagne that was not even on the menu.
Up close
Ragù, a basil leaf and cheese. So good that we will be back tomorrow.
18:43
Ragù, a basil leaf and cheese. So good that we will be back tomorrow.
Day 4 — Saturday 10 October 2026

Fontanelle and the MANN

After breakfast at Caffè Eclettico, down on the Funicolare Centrale and by metro to Museo station, where copies of famous statues from the museum are on display. One stop further, at Materdei, we walked up to the Cimitero delle Fontanelle, the old ossuary cave full of skulls. There it turned out you had to wait over an hour for a guide, while listening to the story through an app anyway. Being led around by the hand by someone we can't even understand? Not for us: we turned right around. By Uber to the Museo Archeologico Nazionale (MANN), buying tickets online on the way. With those we walked straight in, while others stood in line for an hour and a half. We enjoyed the statues, the great hall and the model of Pompeii: after yesterday we still got to see something of Pompeii after all. Then lunch at Tumasi, the same dishes again, simply because they were so incredibly good, and back to Bruno's by Uber to let it all settle and watch F1 qualifying. In the evening we only went out for dinner. Step count at the end of the day: 11,919.

SECTOR SCAN FONTANELLE AND THE MANNDAY 4 · 08:32–15:20
VIA TOLEDOCORSO VITTORIO EMANUELEVIA PESSINAVIA SALVATOR ROSAVIA FONTANELLEVIA FORIACASTEL SANT’ELMODUOMOMATERDEISANITÀVOMERON ↑FUNICOLARE CENTRALEMETRO LINE 1UBERUBER500 M1234567
11,919 STEPS · ≈ 9.2 KM ON FOOTBUS / TUBE ≈ 4.4 KM

Route from the GPS in our photos, including the unused ones; steps from the step counter. Yellow dashes: on foot. Blue dots: bus, train or metro. Diamonds: landmarks.

08:32–10:37 · Breakfast and by metro
  1. At Bruno’s, breakfast at Caffè Eclettico
  2. Museo metro station: copies from the museum
  3. Materdei metro station
10:47–11:30 · Fontanelle: about turn
  1. Padre Pio in the street
  2. Cimitero delle Fontanelle: over an hour’s compulsory wait for a guide, so off we went
11:44–12:27 · The MANN
  1. MANN: straight in with online tickets
13:07–15:20 · Tumasi and back
  1. Tumasi: Parma ham, mozzarella and lasagne
At Caffè Eclettico
A photo with one of the guys at Eclettico.
08:32
A photo with one of the guys at Eclettico.
Breakfast
A graffa, the Neapolitan sugar doughnut, and a filled croissant.
08:35
A graffa, the Neapolitan sugar doughnut, and a filled croissant.
Museo metro station
Museo metro station displays copies of statues from the museum above.
10:14
Museo metro station displays copies of statues from the museum above.
Hercules in the metro
A copy of the Farnese Hercules, right there in the metro station. The original is in the MANN.
10:18
A copy of the Farnese Hercules, right there in the metro station. The original is in the MANN.
The platform
Colourful art along the platform.
10:32
Colourful art along the platform.
Materdei
Up at Materdei metro station. From here we walk uphill.
10:37
Up at Materdei metro station. From here we walk uphill.
Padre Pio
A statue of Padre Pio with plants, right in the middle of the street.
10:47
A statue of Padre Pio with plants, right in the middle of the street.
Almost at the Fontanelle
A church right next to the Cimitero delle Fontanelle.
10:52
A church right next to the Cimitero delle Fontanelle.
At the entrance
Marc at the painted entrance of the Cimitero delle Fontanelle.
10:54
Marc at the painted entrance of the Cimitero delle Fontanelle.
The ticket desk
At the ticket desk, with a skull as decoration. Here we heard we had to wait over an hour for a guide.
10:57
At the ticket desk, with a skull as decoration. Here we heard we had to wait over an hour for a guide.
About turn
The entrance to the cave. We got no further: an hour’s compulsory wait for a guide, when you hear the story through an app anyway? Not for us.
11:02
The entrance to the cave. We got no further: an hour’s compulsory wait for a guide, when you hear the story through an app anyway? Not for us.
The MANN
Straight in with online tickets, past the long queue.
11:44
Straight in with online tickets, past the long queue.
Marble relief
A large marble relief in the ground-floor gallery.
11:45
A large marble relief in the ground-floor gallery.
Marble statues
Marble statues in the ground-floor rooms.
11:46
Marble statues in the ground-floor rooms.
Donatello’s horse head
This huge bronze horse head is the only part ever completed of an equestrian statue by Donatello for King Alfonso V of Aragon.
11:50
This huge bronze horse head is the only part ever completed of an equestrian statue by Donatello for King Alfonso V of Aragon.
The grand staircase
The monumental staircase, with a marble lion at the bottom.
11:51
The monumental staircase, with a marble lion at the bottom.
On the staircase
A large marble statue in a niche on the staircase.
11:52
A large marble statue in a niche on the staircase.
The great hall
The Salone della Meridiana, the huge hall on the top floor.
11:54
The Salone della Meridiana, the huge hall on the top floor.
The ceiling
The painted ceiling of the great hall.
11:54
The painted ceiling of the great hall.
The courtyard
A view of one of the inner courtyards, with palm trees.
11:57
A view of one of the inner courtyards, with palm trees.
Pans from Pompeii
Pans, a baking tray and other kitchenware from Pompeii, almost two thousand years old.
12:02
Pans, a baking tray and other kitchenware from Pompeii, almost two thousand years old.
The model of Pompeii
The large model of Pompeii, at a scale of 1:100. So after yesterday we still got to see something of Pompeii!
12:04
The large model of Pompeii, at a scale of 1:100. So after yesterday we still got to see something of Pompeii!
About the model
VIDEO
12:10
A film about the model: one centimetre is one metre.
A fresco from Pompeii
A red wall painting from Pompeii.
12:13
A red wall painting from Pompeii.
La Villa dei Papiri
The room about the Villa dei Papiri in Herculaneum.
12:17
The room about the Villa dei Papiri in Herculaneum.
Bronze busts
Bronze busts from the Villa dei Papiri.
12:18
Bronze busts from the Villa dei Papiri.
Bronze and marble
A room full of bronze and marble statues.
12:27
A room full of bronze and marble statues.
Back at Tumasi
Parma ham with mozzarella again, simply because it was so incredibly good.
13:07
Parma ham with mozzarella again, simply because it was so incredibly good.
Music on the terrace
VIDEO
13:18
A street musician plays between the tables. Six times the exact same tune, in exactly the same way, at every table. Absolutely ridiculous!
And that lasagne again
And of course that lasagne again. Then back to Bruno’s by Uber: time to let it settle and watch F1 qualifying.
14:14
And of course that lasagne again. Then back to Bruno’s by Uber: time to let it settle and watch F1 qualifying.
Day 5 — Sunday 11 October 2026

Vomero, Tumasi and home

The last day. Sniff. After the last breakfast at Caffè Eclettico the suitcases were packed and ready, and of course now the sun was shining. Up on the Funicolare Centrale to Vomero, but Villa Floridiana turned out to be closed. So we went shopping on Via Scarlatti and enjoyed tea and the bustle on a terrace. By Metro Line 1 to Piazza Dante, for a late lunch, or rather an early dinner, at Tumasi: spaghettoni alla Nerano for Marc and of course carbonara again for Liek. Stuffed, back to Bruno's by Uber to lounge in the sun on his terrace. Bruno had just come home himself and very kindly let us have the key to the apartment for a while, so we could still have a lie-down. By taxi to the airport, where the flight turned out to be delayed: we only started taxiing at 22:19, and at 00:50 we touched down at Schiphol. Step count at the end of the day: 7,248.

SECTOR SCAN VOMERO AND HOMEDAY 5 · 09:34–00:50
VIA TOLEDOCORSO VITTORIO EMANUELEVIA SCARLATTIVIA CIMAROSAVIA PESSINAVIA SALVATOR ROSAMANNDUOMOVOMERON ↑FUNICOLARE CENTRALEMETRO LINE 1UBERTAXI4 — CAPODICHINO500 M123
7,248 STEPS · ≈ 5.6 KM ON FOOTBUS / TUBE ≈ 5.0 KM

Route from the GPS in our photos, including the unused ones; steps from the step counter. Yellow dashes: on foot. Blue dots: bus, train or metro. Diamonds: landmarks.

09:34–10:45 · Last breakfast
  1. At Bruno’s: last breakfast at Eclettico, in the afternoon sun on the terrace
11:02–12:35 · Vomero
  1. Vomero: Villa Floridiana closed, shopping and a terrace on Via Scarlatti
12:42–16:00 · Piazza Dante and Tumasi
  1. Piazza Dante and Tumasi: spaghettoni alla Nerano and carbonara
16:18–00:50 · Terrace and home
  1. Capodichino airport: delayed, airborne after 22:19 and at Schiphol at 00:50
Sunshine at last
On the last morning the sun is finally shining, seen from the terrace at Bruno’s.
09:34
On the last morning the sun is finally shining, seen from the terrace at Bruno’s.
Vomero
Up on the Funicolare Centrale to Vomero, in the sunshine.
11:02
Up on the Funicolare Centrale to Vomero, in the sunshine.
On the terrace
Villa Floridiana was closed, unfortunately, so Liek enjoys the bustle on a terrace.
11:16
Villa Floridiana was closed, unfortunately, so Liek enjoys the bustle on a terrace.
A little break
Something warm to drink on the terrace.
11:24
Something warm to drink on the terrace.
Via Scarlatti
Sunday crowds on Via Scarlatti, under the trees.
12:23
Sunday crowds on Via Scarlatti, under the trees.
Music in the street
A street musician on Via Scarlatti.
12:24
A street musician on Via Scarlatti.
The neon spiral
Vanvitelli metro station has a neon spiral with the Fibonacci numbers.
12:34
Vanvitelli metro station has a neon spiral with the Fibonacci numbers.
Going down
The long escalators of Vanvitelli station.
12:34
The long escalators of Vanvitelli station.
Mosaic
A large mosaic in the same station.
12:35
A large mosaic in the same station.
Quattro Giornate
Quattro Giornate station, on Line 1 towards Piazza Dante.
12:42
Quattro Giornate station, on Line 1 towards Piazza Dante.
Dante station
Art in the corridors of Dante station.
12:50
Art in the corridors of Dante station.
Piazza Dante
A market on Piazza Dante, in the sunshine.
13:04
A market on Piazza Dante, in the sunshine.
F1 at Tumasi
At Tumasi, with Formula 1 on the iPad and a glass of wine.
13:56
At Tumasi, with Formula 1 on the iPad and a glass of wine.
Accordion player
An accordion player comes past the tables.
14:18
An accordion player comes past the tables.
Spaghettoni alla Nerano
Spaghettoni alla Nerano: with fried courgette, pecorino and mint. Liek of course went for the carbonara again.
15:21
Spaghettoni alla Nerano: with fried courgette, pecorino and mint. Liek of course went for the carbonara again.
Sun on the terrace
Stuffed and back at Bruno’s, then lounging in the sun on his terrace. Bruno very kindly let us have the key to the apartment for a while.
16:18
Stuffed and back at Bruno’s, then lounging in the sun on his terrace. Bruno very kindly let us have the key to the apartment for a while.
One last look
One last look at Vesuvius at dusk.
18:39
One last look at Vesuvius at dusk.
Gate C18
At the airport: the flight is delayed, so waiting at gate C18.
21:32
At the airport: the flight is delayed, so waiting at gate C18.
There it is
Our Transavia plane is ready.
21:56
Our Transavia plane is ready.
Finally on board
Finally on board. At 22:19 we start taxiing, and at 00:50 we land at Schiphol.
22:01
Finally on board. At 22:19 we start taxiing, and at 00:50 we land at Schiphol.

// Mission complete. The next Naples mission is already planned: 8–12 September 2027.