Naples — March 2026

The volcano that would watch over the whole trip from the background, caught on camera for the first time: a full moon rising exactly between Vesuvius's two peaks, above the lights of Naples.

The bag's in the boot before it's even light out. The start of five days in Naples.

A selfie on the plane, the excitement for a new city still fresh on our faces.

Somewhere above the Alps, heading south — from up here the trip already feels far from home.

At the station in Naples, ready to head into the city.

A busy, colourful street full of scooters and balconies — exactly how Naples should be.

Our first look over the rooftops of Naples, with the sea in the distance.

A savoury local bite sampled on a terrace, while the city carries on below.

Naples lies spread out in its entirety from the walls of the Certosa di San Martino.

Coast, harbour and sea, from one of the city's finest viewpoints.

A round window framing one of the best spots in the city — a moment to sit and take it all in.

The colour and energy of Naples, found even in the smallest side streets.

Not a sunset, but the church's vivid blue interior lighting shining out through this window as evening falls.

Lit-up façades and narrow streets, Naples in its evening mood.

The first real dinner of the trip: a simple plate of gnocchi in tomato sauce, but with a flavour that overwhelms — exactly what real Italian cooking does with simple ingredients. The best gnocchi of the trip so far.

Naples is the birthplace of pizza — of course it's on the table already on day one.

A sweet end to a long, beautiful first day.

Coffee and pastries on a small terrace, before the city wakes up to full bustle.

A smile over the breakfast plate — the calm before the rush of sightseeing.

Naples' great central square, imposing and open after the narrow streets.

Naples shows off its history everywhere, even just on the way to the next corner.

The cathedral dedicated to San Gennaro, the city's patron saint, in full glory.

Even the queue at the door is part of visiting such an impressive building.

Inside the Duomo it's overwhelming: gold, frescoes, and light falling through tall windows.

A moment to pose among the richly decorated side altars of the cathedral.

Centuries-old painting, still in its original spot.

Amid the bustle of the main aisle, a moment of quiet at one of the side altars.

The narrow streets around Via dei Tribunali are full of expressive street art.

Another of the many large mural portraits that give the quarter its character.

The classic Neapolitan street scene: tall façades, umbrellas and decorations strung high overhead, life everywhere.

Via San Gregorio Armeno, where presepe figurines are made and sold all year round.

Right by the Vico Purgatorio ad Arco stands this small bronze skull on a post — a typically Neapolitan memento mori, tied to the centuries-old veneration of the 'poor souls' in purgatory that has marked this corner of the city for ages.

A few metres further on, also near the Vico Purgatorio ad Arco, this life-size portrait looks down the alley from the façade — street art right in the heart of the old town.

Further along, the street gets busier: souvenir shops, fragrant bakeries, and garlands and little flags strung high above the cobblestones everywhere — one of the most famous streets in Naples, running in a straight line right through the old town centre.

The Guglia di San Domenico, an ornate Baroque monument right in the historic centre.

Cold cuts, cheese and a glass of wine — a chance to recover after a morning full of impressions.

Arrived at the entrance to Napoli Sotterranea, ready to dive into the city underground.

The start of the descent into Napoli Sotterranea, deep beneath the city's streets.

Narrow tunnels hewn out by hand — tuff stone that has held for centuries.

One of the large chambers that once served as a water reservoir for the whole city.

The passages of Napoli Sotterranea wind for kilometres beneath the city.

An old well, looking straight up at a small circle of daylight, far overhead.

Even here, thirty metres beneath Naples, plants grow — thanks to the high humidity in the tunnels, they don't even need watering.

Still deep underground: a light installation high against the rock wall, as we gather for the next stretch of the tour through the tunnels.

Neapolitan folklore, live, right in the middle of the street.

Handcrafted trinkets in one of the many small shops along the way.

An edicola votiva, a small shrine set into the façade — a typical Neapolitan street sight.

Spaccanapoli keeps buzzing with activity all day long.

Soft, creamy and with a touch of olive oil — a perfect start to dinner.

Simple and delicious, the way only Neapolitan cooking can manage.

Even on day three, a visit to Naples isn't complete without a real margherita.

A warm chocolate cake that makes exactly the right ending to a long, beautiful day.

An early start — the volcano doesn't wait.

A quick recharge before the bus to Vesuvius leaves.

Even outside the centre of Naples, street art turns up everywhere.

No ordinary bus stop: this is the shuttle that runs from the little station at the bottom up to the start of the trail to the top of Vesuvius.

The road up winds along the flanks of the volcano.

The mountains around Naples slide past the window.

Already a breathtaking view over the surroundings from the first stretch of height.

The trail winds over the bare slopes, with the Gulf of Naples below.

From up here you can see just how big the area around the volcano really is.

A portrait with the clouds and mountains in the background.

A grey, hazy day, but the view is still impressive.

A sign about the history and danger of Vesuvius — a living volcano right under our feet.

The last stretch of the trail, with the wind picking up sharply.

A friendly stray dog, completely unbothered by all the tourists, coming over for a pat.

Back down below, starving after the climb, sitting down for dinner.

A savoury extra bite after a day full of activity.

From the outside Tumasi looked like a tourist trap at the foot of the volcano, but the opposite turned out to be true: this gnocchi alla sorrentina was the best of the whole trip.

The name of the restaurant where all of the day's impressions are celebrated tonight.

Liek scored too: the best carbonara she's ever eaten. More proof that Tumasi is anything but a tourist trap.

After a day of climbing Vesuvius, this one tastes extra good.

The sky turns orange over the city, Vesuvius a silhouette against it — a beautiful farewell.

The last quiet minutes before the suitcases go out the door.

Planes on the tarmac, ready for the journey home.

Up the outdoor stairs and onto the plane — the trip is almost over.

A sea of white beneath the wing, somewhere between Naples and home.

The familiar polders and waterways come into view.

One last look down before the plane begins its descent.

The Dutch landscape, flat and green, after five days in Naples — a lovely trip comes to an end.