Naples — March 2026
Mission log · 11–15 March 2026
VIEWSCREEN // LOG MARCH 2026
NAPLES — MARCH 2026
Five days in Naples, from 11 to 15 March 2026: from Castel Sant'Elmo and the Duomo di Napoli to the underground passages of Napoli Sotterranea and the climb up Vesuvius. Log below, day by day.
Day 1 — Wednesday 11 March 2026
Departure and arrival
Up before dawn and into the car, heading for Schiphol. After a flight over snow-capped Alpine peaks we land in Naples. The Alibus to Garibaldi station, and then into the city. The afternoon is spent at the Certosa di San Martino and Castel Sant'Elmo, high above the city, with one of the finest views in Naples over the Gulf and Vesuvius. The evening ends with our first real Neapolitan dinner, at Taverna Luciana: gnocchi, pizza, tiramisu.
≈ 16,900 STEPS · ≈ 13.0 KM ON FOOT
Route from the GPS in our photos, including the unused ones; steps from the step counter. Yellow dashes: on foot. Blue dots: bus, train or metro. Diamonds: landmarks.
09:43–10:16 · Arrival
- Landed at Capodichino
- By Alibus to Garibaldi station
11:08–12:19 · Into town, to Bruno’s
- First impression of the city
- At Bruno’s, and a first bite at Caffè Eclettico
13:57–15:49 · Certosa and Sant’Elmo
- Certosa di San Martino: views over the bay
- Coffee with a view through the round window
- Street art in Vomero
18:46–19:46 · Evening
- The city by night
- Taverna Luciana: gnocchi, pizza and tiramisu
Full moon over Vesuvius
time unknown (received as a photo)
The volcano that would watch over the whole trip from the background, caught on camera for the first time: a full moon rising exactly between Vesuvius's two peaks, above the lights of Naples.
Into the car in the dark
04:49
The bag's in the boot before it's even light out. The start of five days in Naples.
Ready for departure
06:41
A selfie on the plane, the excitement for a new city still fresh on our faces.
Snow-capped peaks beneath the wing
09:05
Somewhere above the Alps, heading south: from up here the trip already feels far from home.
First steps on Neapolitan soil
10:16
At the station in Naples, ready to head into the city.
First impression of the city
11:08
A busy, colourful street full of scooters and balconies: exactly how Naples should be.
View from Bruno's terrace
12:10
Our first look over the rooftops of Naples.
First bite of the trip
12:19
Frittata di maccheroni and a few bites, inside Caffè Eclettico, across from Bruno's.
Panorama from the Certosa
13:57
Naples lies spread out in its entirety from the walls of the Certosa di San Martino.
The Gulf of Naples in one view
14:03
Coast, harbour and sea, from one of the city's finest viewpoints.
Coffee with a view
14:24
A round window framing one of the best spots in the city, a moment to sit and take it all in.
Street art on an old wall
15:49
The colour and energy of Naples, found even in the smallest side streets.
A blue-lit church window at dusk
18:46
Not a sunset, but the church's vivid blue interior lighting shining out through this window as evening falls.
The city by night
18:49
Lit-up façades and narrow streets, Naples in its evening mood.
Gnocchi to start
19:15
The first real dinner of the trip, at Taverna Luciana: a simple plate of gnocchi in tomato sauce, but with a flavour that overwhelms: exactly what real Italian cooking does with simple ingredients. The best gnocchi of the trip so far.
And then the pizza
19:16
Naples is the birthplace of pizza: of course it's on the table already on day one.
Finishing with tiramisu
19:46
A sweet end to a long, beautiful first day.
Day 2 — Thursday 12 March 2026
The Duomo, Spaccanapoli and the old town
After a quiet breakfast, into the city: Piazza Dante, the imposing Duomo di Napoli with its golden interior, and then the narrow, busy streets of Spaccanapoli. Along the way, colourful murals in the lanes of the centro storico, the famous nativity-scene shops of Via San Gregorio Armeno (open all year round), and a lively square with an obelisk. After a lunch of local cold cuts and cheese, we round off the day with a glass of wine at Bruno's, on his terrace overlooking the city and Vesuvius.
≈ 11,700 STEPS · ≈ 9.0 KM ON FOOT
Route from the GPS in our photos, including the unused ones; steps from the step counter. Yellow dashes: on foot. Blue dots: bus, train or metro. Diamonds: landmarks.
09:18 · Breakfast
- Breakfast at Caffè Eclettico
10:16–11:27 · Piazza Dante and the Duomo
- Piazza Dante
- Port’Alba and Piazza Bellini
- The Duomo and the chapel of San Gennaro
11:38–12:51 · The old centre
- Street art around Via dei Tribunali
- Via San Gregorio Armeno: nativity figures
- Vico Purgatorio ad Arco
- Spaccanapoli and the Guglia di San Domenico
13:33–15:40 · Lunch and Bruno’s terrace
- Lunch: cured meats, cheese and wine
- A glass of wine on Bruno’s terrace
Breakfast to start the day
09:18
Coffee and pastries inside Caffè Eclettico, before the city wakes up to full bustle.
One last moment before heading out
09:24
A smile over the breakfast plate: the calm before the rush of sightseeing.
Piazza Dante
10:16
Vanvitelli's semicircular square, with the clock tower in the middle and the statue of Dante at its edge.
The statue of Dante
10:17
Naples shows off its history everywhere, even just on the way to the next corner.
The Duomo of Naples
10:37
Naples cathedral in full glory. Inside is the chapel of San Gennaro, the city's patron saint.
Waiting at the entrance
10:54
Even the queue at the door is part of visiting such an impressive building.
Gilded interior
11:10
Inside the Duomo it's overwhelming: gold, frescoes, and light falling through tall windows.
By the cathedral's side altars
11:12
A moment to pose among the richly decorated side altars of the cathedral.
Altarpiece in the light
11:19
Centuries-old painting, still in its original spot.
A quiet corner of the cathedral
11:20
Amid the bustle of the main aisle, a moment of quiet at one of the side altars.
Mural in the old town
11:42
The narrow streets around Via dei Tribunali are full of expressive street art.
A face on the wall
11:42
Another of the many large mural portraits that give the quarter its character.
Umbrellas above a narrow street
11:47
The classic Neapolitan street scene: tall façades, umbrellas and decorations strung high overhead, life everywhere.
A shop full of nativity scenes
12:05
Via San Gregorio Armeno, where presepe figurines are made and sold all year round.
A skull as silent guardian
12:34
Right by the Vico Purgatorio ad Arco stands this small bronze skull on a post, a typically Neapolitan memento mori, tied to the centuries-old veneration of the 'poor souls' in purgatory that has marked this corner of the city for ages.
A face on the façade
12:35
A few metres further on, also near the Vico Purgatorio ad Arco, this life-size portrait looks down the alley from the façade, street art right in the heart of the old town.
The bustle of Spaccanapoli
12:43
Further along, the street gets busier: souvenir shops, fragrant bakeries, and garlands and little flags strung high above the cobblestones everywhere, one of the most famous streets in Naples, running in a straight line right through the old town centre.
Square by the spire
12:51
The Guglia di San Domenico, an ornate Baroque monument right in the historic centre.
Lunch of local specialties
13:33
Cold cuts, cheese and a glass of wine: a chance to recover after a morning full of impressions.
On the terrace with Bruno
15:40
Liek and Bruno, our host, with a glass of wine on his terrace, looking out over the rooftops of Naples and Vesuvius in the distance.
Together with Bruno
15:40
Marc and Bruno at the little table on the terrace. Behind us, the domes of the city and Vesuvius.
Day 3 — Friday 13 March 2026
Napoli Sotterranea and street life
Beneath the city lies a whole other city: two-thousand-year-old Greek-Roman tunnels, water reservoirs and Second World War air-raid shelters, visited through Napoli Sotterranea. Back above ground, the day continues among the stalls and little shops of Spaccanapoli, with another elaborate dinner at Taverna Luciana in the evening: burrata, pasta, pizza, and a chocolate dessert to savour.
≈ 11,800 STEPS · ≈ 9.1 KM ON FOOT
Route from the GPS in our photos, including the unused ones; steps from the step counter. Yellow dashes: on foot. Blue dots: bus, train or metro. Diamonds: landmarks.
MORNING · Breakfast
- Breakfast at Caffè Eclettico
09:53–10:55 · Beneath the city
- Napoli Sotterranea: 40 metres below the city
13:05–13:28 · Spaccanapoli
- Street artists, little shops and stalls
19:00–20:00 · Dinner
- Taverna Luciana again: burrata, pasta, pizza and chocolate cake
At the entrance to Napoli Sotterranea
09:53
Arrived at the entrance to Napoli Sotterranea, ready to dive into the city underground.
The stairs down
09:58
The start of the descent into Napoli Sotterranea, deep beneath the city's streets.
Through the centuries-old passages
10:20
Narrow tunnels hewn out by hand, tuff stone that has held for centuries.
An underground chamber
10:24
One of the large chambers that once served as a water reservoir for the whole city.
Deep in the tuff stone
10:28
The passages of Napoli Sotterranea wind for kilometres beneath the city.
A window to the sky
10:31
An old well, looking straight up at a small circle of daylight, far overhead.
A little garden underground
10:39
Even here, forty metres beneath Naples, plants grow: thanks to the high humidity in the tunnels, they don't even need watering.
Art deep in the tuff stone
10:55
Still deep underground: a light installation high against the rock wall, as we gather for the next stretch of the tour through the tunnels.
Street performer at work
13:05
Neapolitan folklore, live, right in the middle of the street.
A colourful little shop
13:19
Handcrafted trinkets in one of the many small shops along the way.
A saint's statue in the wall
13:27
An edicola votiva, a small shrine set into the façade, a typical Neapolitan street sight.
Stalls along the street
13:28
Spaccanapoli keeps buzzing with activity all day long.
Burrata to start
19:00
Back at Taverna Luciana. Soft, creamy and with a touch of olive oil: a perfect start to dinner.
Homemade pasta
19:13
Simple and delicious, the way only Neapolitan cooking can manage.
That pizza again
19:27
Even on day three, a visit to Naples isn't complete without a real margherita.
Chocolate dessert to finish
20:00
A warm chocolate cake that makes exactly the right ending to a long, beautiful day.
Day 4 — Saturday 14 March 2026
Climbing Vesuvius
By public transport to Ercolano, then by shuttle bus up the volcano that dominates the whole area: Vesuvius. Along the way, colourful street art and a short stop, then the trail up to the crater, with a breathtaking view over the Gulf of Naples at every bend. Halfway up, a sweet encounter with a stray dog, and in the evening a well-earned dinner at restaurant Tumasi.
≈ 7,600 STEPS · ≈ 5.9 KM ON FOOTBUS / TUBE ≈ 31.7 KM
Route from the GPS in our photos, including the unused ones; steps from the step counter. Yellow dashes: on foot. Blue dots: bus, train or metro. Diamonds: landmarks.
09:14–09:53 · Breakfast
- Breakfast at Caffè Eclettico
11:28–12:28 · To Vesuvius
- A mural along the way
- Ercolano: the shuttle to Vesuvius
- First panorama
12:40–14:01 · Up to the crater
- The footpath up
- Almost at the crater rim (and the stray dog)
16:28–18:19 · Tumasi
- Tumasi: the best gnocchi and carbonara
Breakfast before setting off
09:14
Caffè Eclettico again. An early start: the volcano doesn't wait.
One more coffee for the road
09:53
A quick recharge before we take public transport towards Vesuvius.
Mural along the way
11:28
Even outside the centre of Naples, street art turns up everywhere.
The shuttle to Vesuvius
11:42
No ordinary bus stop: this is the shuttle that runs from the little station at the bottom up to the start of the trail to the top of Vesuvius.
On the road in the bus
12:05
In the shuttle bus at Ercolano station, ready for the ride up.
View from the bus
12:08
From the road through Ercolano, Vesuvius itself already in view.
First panorama on Vesuvius
12:28
Already a breathtaking view over the surroundings from the first stretch of height.
The footpath up
12:40
From the start of the footpath, with the winding road and the Gulf of Naples below.
Sweeping view over the region
12:43
From up here you can see just how big the area around the volcano really is.
Pausing for the view
12:51
A portrait with the clouds and mountains in the background.
The Gulf of Naples from the volcano
12:53
A grey, hazy day, but the view is still impressive.
Information about the volcano
12:56
A sign about the history and danger of Vesuvius, a living volcano right under our feet.
Almost at the crater rim
13:09
The last stretch of the trail, with the wind picking up sharply.
A fluffy surprise
13:25
A friendly stray dog, completely unbothered by all the tourists, coming over for a pat.
Terrace at Tumasi
16:28
Back in the city, starving after the climb: sitting down on Tumasi's covered terrace on Piazza Dante.
An extra bite at Tumasi
16:35
A savoury extra bite after a day full of activity.
The best gnocchi sorrentino
16:57
From the outside Tumasi looked like a tourist trap on Piazza Dante, but the opposite turned out to be true: this gnocchi alla sorrentina was the best of the whole trip.
The menu at Tumasi
17:19
The name of the restaurant where all of the day's impressions are celebrated tonight.
The best carbonara
18:17
Liek scored too: the best carbonara she's ever eaten. More proof that Tumasi is anything but a tourist trap.
Pizza as a well-earned reward
18:19
After a day of climbing Vesuvius, this one tastes extra good.
Day 5 — Sunday 15 March 2026
Flight home
The last morning begins with a sunrise over Naples, with Vesuvius in the background one more time. Then it's off to the airport and the flight back to the Netherlands, above the clouds, and on the way down, the familiar polders and canals of home.
≈ 5,400 STEPS · ≈ 4.2 KM ON FOOTBUS / TUBE ≈ 4.9 KM
Route from the GPS in our photos, including the unused ones; steps from the step counter. Yellow dashes: on foot. Blue dots: bus, train or metro. Diamonds: landmarks.
06:30–07:15 · Sunrise and breakfast
- Last sunrise from Bruno’s terrace
- Breakfast at Caffè Eclettico
07:37–10:42 · Home
- Capodichino airport, boarding
Last sunrise over Naples
06:30
The sky turns orange over the city, Vesuvius a silhouette against it: a beautiful farewell.
One last moment with the view
06:50
The last quiet minutes before the suitcases go out the door.
At the airport
07:37
Planes on the tarmac, ready for the journey home.
Boarding
10:42
Up the outdoor stairs and onto the plane: the trip is almost over.
Above the clouds
12:41
A sea of white beneath the wing, somewhere between Naples and home.
Back over the Netherlands
13:14
The familiar polders and waterways come into view.
Almost landed
13:15
One last look down before the plane begins its descent.
Home in sight
13:18
The Dutch landscape, flat and green, after five days in Naples: a lovely trip comes to an end.